The mood on Matilda is exuberant and joyful (maybe those mean the same thing).

We have almost completed crossing the Indian Ocean. This crossing had the reputation of being the hardest and most difficult and it exceeded expectations. We had an onslaught of wind and swell for 8 straight days with a brief respite for 12 hours. Our weather consultant – Des, became our emotional support human and warned us in explicit detail what was to happen. One day our instructions were to head south to take advantage of the favorable current, the next day our instructions were to head north to avoid the worst of the shear zone and squalls and thunder storms associated with low pressure cells. Yesterday Des told us that the worst was behind us and we started to have a little optimism that we would make it. 

Conflicting Currents coming at us

The weather attack was violent with waves crashing over the bow and lifting us out of the water and then slamming us down. Every towel and pillow was stuffed in to all the cupboards to stop the incessant banging. The waves came over the top of the Bimini soaking the cockpit.

Water gushing into the cockpit

We had to do our watches wearing full foul-weather gear. Sleep was impossible, the skipper spent an entire 12 hours in the cockpit one night guiding us to safety while the first mate cowered down below. Repayment was the first mate spending 12hours on watch DURING THE DAY while the skipper slept. This unpleasantness just kept coming with 25 to 35 knot winds for days and days with daunting swells. The boat was beginning to smell like a very dirty, wet dog.

Today the ocean is acting like nothing happened. It is calm and glassy and windless. We are relishing being able to open some hatches for air and have washed not only ourselves but also the clothes and the dishes. We will be able to cook some food and eat it and and drink without spilling all over ourselves. We have not been able to cook for 5 days and showering was impossible.

Laundry day

We did a brief damage assessment and Matilda faired reasonably well but needs a lot of work in South Africa to be ready for more ocean crossing. Some of our fellow ARC boats have not fared as well, two lost their main sails and one of the catamarans right now is dealing with failure of both of  its engines.

We are not there yet however, the end is in sight. One last mandate from Des, this calm weather will only last until tonight and then we must be in a safe harbor by tomorrow when a gale will hit. We are 75 miles from our entry point to the Agulhas current and then 40 miles of riding this current to Richards Bay. 

Approaching Richards Bay

Des’s latest to us – “overnight on final approach to Richards Bay winds NE 22 gusting to 30. Ensure you get to min 5 nm off Cape Lucia for the final run down. This ensures the current does not drag you past the harbor entrance.” We should get there at daybreak tomorrow and will be keeping our fingers crossed for all our fellow ARC boats. The first of our fleet arrived a few hours ago. 

It’s hard to contemplate but, we only have a few days to recover in Richards Bay before we have to turn our attention to rounding the CAPE of Good Hope en route to Cape Town. This is a mere 720 miles which will need to be timed to perfection – Des will be on speed dial again.

Fabulous photo courtesy of Elaine on Renegade showing some wave action